Shaking Off Winter, a Lemon Asparagus Soup
Don't throw away those woody stems (hello, stock) and yes, you can make croutons in 5-minutes!
Anton was off from school last week and with the weather taking a reprieve from its blustering cold temps, we got out each day for a walk. Well, I walked (and held my breath) while he careened down the sidewalk on a bright pink secondhand mini-scooter. We didn’t take part in any winter sports this year, so it was the first time in months, truly, that we were able to be outside in a meaningful (i.e. enjoyable) way. And to feel a warmth in the air and sunlight well into the afternoon again; to witness daring pops of chartreuse green here and there as the earth starts to show life; to find tiny purple and white crocuses lining the sidewalks, swaying back and forth in the wind… it’s been nothing short of glorious. Just when you think you can no longer bear winter’s darkness—both in the literal and figurative sense—spring has a way of breaking through its cracks.
Originally, I was going to share with you all a super easy, comforting Russian-Soviet dish that literally translates to “meat in the French way.” You layer your choice of meat (mine tends to be dark, juicy chicken thighs) with peppers, onions, cheese and mayo—the latter two combine to turn into a browned soufflé while the oven bakes. It’s SO good and I’m convincing myself, as I write this, that I’ll still post it, but maybe just for paid subscribers ;) If you have my copy of Hot Cheese then you can head straight to pg. 100 for a winning chicken dinner.
Instead, I’m giving you a lighter, yet equally delightful recipe - a Lemon Asparagus Soup. I developed it years ago for culture: the word on cheese magazine when I still contributed to the publication and now make each spring. It’s bright, creamy, and best of all simple. I usually don’t get excited by soups (I know, how un-Eastern European of me), but this one is really satisfying to cook and is such a great canvas for layering flavors and textures. I’ve learned a few tricks over the years on how to make a mean bowl of soup, so before you get cooking, here they are:
Don’t throw away those woody stems! I learned this pro-move from one of my all-time favorite, now out-of-print cookbooks: tip the fibrous ends into a pot, cover with about 4 to 5 cups of water, bring to a boil, then cover and gently simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes. Voila! Stock for your soup. Twice the flavor for very little effort - plus, no waste. Genius, right?
Layer those flavors. First off, play with all the herbs! Woody herbs, such as thyme here, should be sautéed with other aromatics. Soft herbs, in this case parsley, get added at the very end so that their flavors don’t get muted. A little creme fraiche gives body and a bit of tang, but you could also use heavy cream and make up for the zing with more lemon. Lastly, dry vermouth adds that hint of je ne sais quoi. You can also swap it out with Pernod, a dry sherry, or just omit — the soup will still be good!
And lastly don’t skimp on that garnish. If there’s one thing I learned in my years of cooking in different cafes is that a garnish can really turn a bowl of soup into something special. Not only does it add visual appeal, but also layers of flavor and texture. Here are some I love for this soup:
Asparagus tips: Simple, but cute. While prepping the asparagus, set aside a ½ cup of asparagus tips (cut about 1 ½-inch from the top). While soup is simmering, in a small saucepan, bring salted water to a boil and set up an ice bath. Drop in the asparagus and blanch for about 1 ½ minutes, or until bright green and just tender. Transfer immediately to the ice bath to stop cooking and preserve color.
Soft goat cheese: Any will do, adding a nice brightness. Fresh plain chevre is the obvious choice, but if you have access to a well-stocked cheese counter, try out a soft-ripened puck. Wedges of Cypress Grove’s Humboldt Fog have been a go-to in the past, and my local cheese shop just posted about Capriole Goat Cheese’s Sofia that I can’t get out of my head.
5-minute croutons: Again, a no-waste tip and would be especially good with a rye sourdough as pictured. Take a slice of day-old bread, cut into little cubes (or tear into little pieces), and toss them into a skillet with a generous drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and pepper (black and/or aleppo!). Cooked on medium heat, tossing occasionally, until they get golden and crispy. Taste and season some more if necessary; toss some extra chopped parsley or lemon zest if you have some lying around; and voila again!!
Lemon Asparagus Soup
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 medium russet potato, peeled, ⅛-in sliced
5 cups asparagus stock (see post above), vegetable stock, or water, divided
2 pounds (900 g) asparagus (about 2 bunches), woody ends removed, and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup (8 g) chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup (60 g) crème fraîche or heavy cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon dry vermouth (optional)
Garnish of choice (see post above): blanched asparagus tips; 4 oz goat cheese, cut into wedges or crumbled; or croutons
Instructions:
Heat oil and butter in a large pot over medium heat and add the onions and a generous pinch of both salt and black pepper. Cook until onion is soft and melty, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook for another minute.
Add potatoes and 1 cup stock, cover, and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until potatoes are fork-tender.
Stir in asparagus, remaining stock, and generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and gently simmer, uncovered, on low heat for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until asparagus is tender.
After asparagus has cooked, stir in the parsley, crème fraîche, lemon juice, and vermouth (if using), and puree with an immersion blender or standup blender. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Serve soup hot or at room temperature. Top each bowl with your garnish of choice.
What I’m…
Eating: I attended this month’s RI Cookbook Club, which was spotlighting a beloved cookbook of mine—Simple by Diana Henry. Favorites were my cumin-coriander roasted carrots with avocado and pomegranate and the lamb “lollipops” with feta, dates, a creamy tahini sauce, and all the herbs. You can see the dinner in all its glory here.
Watching… I never got the hype around Top Chef until… I started watching it. I’m officially hooked! One of the contestants this season is Anya El Wattar—the chef/owner of the much-acclaimed, now shuttered Birch and Rye in SF. I got to meet her last year at Kachka’s 10th anniversary dinner and she is just lovely. It’s been fun rooting for someone you know and so far she’s doing really well leaning into her Russian roots. Go, Anya, go!
Reading… The latest Saveur issue! I, of course, headed straight to the article on RI pizza (no birthday party growing up here was complete without those chunky red-sauce strips). DePetrillo’s Bakery in Warwick (pronounced Wah-whick) is where it’s at.
Buying… It feels a bit silly buying and paying shipping for chips, but I tried these Bombay Spice ones years ago by my friend Keya and have been thinking of them ever since. She just officially launched her brand Keya Snacks (they sell locally in Richmond, but ship nationwide) and what better way to support a friend… I also got the Black Salt ones, too. It’ll be a good mail day when they arrive!
That’s it for today! Happy spring, happy cooking! And if you’ve made it this far —thanks for reading, subscribing, and sharing. If it’s not too much trouble, please consider “hearting” this post or leave a comment and say hi!
Until next time,
Polina
Delicious! Vermouth is an unsung hero in spring soups! I use it in my tomato-fennel soup, it's so good!
Hi Polina - this looks delicious! I can't wait to try it. Love seeing you here on Substack after "meeting" you in Kathy Gunst's class last year.