Badrijani Nigvzit (Georgian Eggplant Rolls with Garlicky Spiced Walnuts)

And a big THANK YOU!

Hello and welcome to Chesnok: Notes from a Post-Soviet Kitchen, a newsletter that explores life and cooking from the Soviet diaspora! This is a reader-supported publication, so if you’re here and not already subscribed, well here you go:

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Hello dear friends,

I want to start off by thanking all of you for the positive response to the book announcement in my last newsletter. I’m not a terribly insecure person, but I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that this whole process—launching something so deeply personal into the world—has left me feeling super exposed! Behind every I’m so excited to share this project with you has been a Oh God, I hope they like it **fingers crossed**.

But each message I receive expressing enthusiasm, each re-share and “like” showing your support, leaves me buoyed and validated that I’m on the right path. Chesnok is the ultimate outlet for what I love to do most—cook, bake, teach, and write about my family’s culinary heritage—and I hope its success (with the help of you all!) will allow me to continue those pursuits.

Many of you have asked if I have a preferred bookseller. Having worked at Book Larder for years, I will always champion independent bookstores. These “third places” provide opportunities for community engagement and building; investment in local economy (no one likes walking through a commercial strip that’s all boarded up); and the discovery of authors and books that you probably wouldn’t come across scrolling online otherwise. Many of these “indies” even ship nationwide, but, if they don’t, you can still support them through Bookshop.org—which is another great option.

And of course there are the big online retailers like Amazon and Barnes & Nobles. I hate to admit it, but pre-orders on those sites (especially the former) hold a lot of weight in marking a book’s success. Amazon is still the #1 place most people buy their books. So, the more pre-orders a book clocks on the site, the more likely its algorithm will favor it—which in turn will boost sales and visibility.

So bottom line: you really can’t go wrong as long as you remember to pre-order! If you’re planning on buying more than one copy, consider spreading the love between multiple retailers ;)

If you have preordered, make sure you hold on to your receipt! I am working on putting together a bonus booklet of recipes and an exclusive giveaway for those who have pre-ordered (or are paid subscribers to the newsletter), so stay tuned. By the way, here’s a list of the some of the dishes I’m considering for the booklet—I’d love to hear which ones you’d be most excited to see!

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And now for today’s recipe. When

@diningwithcourt

reached out a couple of months ago about wanting to do a write-up on Georgian wine and would I consider sharing a recipe to go with it, I had just the dish.

As Courtney notes in her post, “Amber wines have a full-bodied, savory profile with grippy tannins, thanks to the grape skins left intact during fermentation. These wines are a bit bolder than your typical white wines, with a texture reminiscent of red wines. Therefore we want to pair these wines with things have meet the same level of flavor punch.”

Enter Georgian badrijani nigvzit or fried eggplant rolls stuffed with a garlicky spiced walnut paste.

I was initially going to include this recipe in Chesnok, but opted to go with the way my mom typically prepares these roll-ups: using a spiced cilantro aioli for the filling instead of the more traditional walnut-garlic paste you see here. (I often had to remind myself that I wasn’t writing a definitive book on Georgian cuisine, which freed me up to present dishes the way we really cooked them at home. Even if it they weren’t super “authentic.”)

It was a tough call, though, because I really do love this classic version. We’re talking silky, unctuous planks of pan-fried eggplant slathered in a garlicky-walnut paste that also boasts cilantro and spices like marigold and blue fenugreek. Talk about a flavor punch! When I was in Georgia last fall, I couldn’t get enough of these little walnut-packed parcels and had to place an order each time they appeared on a menu. Which, if you’ve ever visited the country, you’ll know is every time you got out to eat. No regrets!

I hope Courtney’s post inspires you to seek out some Georgian wine; and I hope mine gets you to fry up a platter of badrijani for a delicious pairing. If you do, please let us know how it goes. Gaumarjos! Cheers!

All my best,
Polina

As always, if you’ve made it this far —thanks for reading, subscribing, and sharing. If it’s not too much trouble, please consider “hearting” this post, leave a comment and say hi, or share it far and wide for others to see!

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Badrijani Nigvzit (Georgian Eggplant Rolls with Garlicky Spiced Walnuts)

Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer, or about 24 rolls

You will find some variation of this dish on menus all over Georgia—and for good reason. Who can pass up custardy fried eggplant slathered in garlicky, spiced walnuts? Tart pomegranate seeds, while not always in season, help cut through the richness and add a beautiful pop of color and flavor. I once had these badrijani served to us plated in a pool of pomegranate molasses, which was also delicious. To eat, I like to pick one up with a fork, smash it onto some good crusty flatbread (or puri as they call it over there), and dig in. Wash down with a good amber wine to experience one of the most iconic (and my personal favorite) Georgian bites.

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Ingredients

2 large globe¹ eggplant (3 to 3 ½ lbs), destemmed, partially peeled in alternating stripes, cut lengthwise into ¼ to ⅓ -inch (6.5 mm to 8.5 mm) planks
Diamond Crystal kosher salt
¼ cup (55 g) sunflower oil or other high-smoking point oil, plus more as needed
Pomegranate seeds, to garnish

Filling:
1 ½ c (170 grams) walnuts
½ large bunch fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
3 large garlic cloves
2 ½ teaspoons DC kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 ½ teaspoon ground marigold²
1 ½ teaspoon ground blue fenugreek
¼ teaspoon cayenne, plus more to taste
⅔ cup (155 g) water, plus more if needed
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons mayonnaise (optional)

Instructions

Sprinkle each eggplant plank with a small pinch of salt on both sides and transfer to a colander set over a bowl. Let stand for at least 30 minutes while you make the filling.

To make the filling: In a food processor, blitz the walnuts, cilantro, garlic, salt, and spices until finely ground. Add the water, vinegar, and mayonnaise (if using) and process until thoroughly combined. You want the paste to be the consistency of a loose pesto³, so if needed, add another tablespoon or two until desired consistency is reached. Taste and season with more salt or vinegar if needed until filling is bright and sharp. Set aside.

Working in batches, stack 4 to 5 eggplant slices on top of each other and use your hands to squeeze any excess liquid. Pat each slice dry.

To fry the eggplant: In a large non-stick skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Working in batches, fry the eggplant slices until lightly browned on the bottom, 3 to 4 minutes. Lower heat if needed if eggplant is browning too quickly. Use a fork to pierce the base of the eggplant and flip. Cook until the bottom is lightly browned and the eggplant is fork-tender, another 2 to 3 minutes. As they are done, pick up the eggplant slices with the fork, shake over the pan to remove any excess oil, and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Repeat with the remaining slices, adding oil as needed.

To fill the eggplant: While the fried eggplant slices are still warm, spread each slice generously with the filling and roll up starting from the base. Transfer rolls seam-side down to a serving platter or storage container. Serve at room temperature, garnished with pomegranate seeds, and bread on the side. Refrigerated, the badrijani will last for up to 4 to 5 days.

1. When picking out eggplant, if “globe” isn’t available, look for varieties that are on the longer side, such as Japanese or Chinese, which will be more suitable for rolling.

2. My favorite purveyor of Georgian spices is Suneli Valley. They work with farmers in Georgia to source and blend super fresh spices and herbs and import them to the US. They also sell on Amazon!

3. You want your paste a little looser than you think because the walnuts will hydrate over time. If there’s not enough liquid, the filling will be a bit dry (for that reason, my mom sometimes adds a bit of mayo to help emulsify things). Also, the recipe makes a lot of paste because I’d rather have more than not enough to fill all the rolls. Use any remaining as a spread or dip, or a sauce to go with chicken or fish.